When asparagus and artichokes first appear in spring markets, you know you’ve made it through another winter. They’re the jewels of spring, the harbinger of all that is fresh and green and delicate. And they are two of my most favorite vegetables. Here’s a basic primer on how to cook both of these spring delicacies, along with three new recipes that use them in dishes ideal for this time of year.
Artichokes
The flavor of an artichoke is not easy to describe. Some say artichokes are nutty, sweet and slightly bitter. Others compare them to fresh asparagus. But I think artichokes have a thoroughly unique flavor: earthy, meaty, vegetal, spring-like.
Artichokes are actually the immature flower buds of the thistle plant, harvested and eaten before they bloom. They are native to the Mediterranean region (grown in Italy, France and Spain), but most of the artichokes we see in U.S. supermarkets are grown in California. The town of Castroville is considered the “Artichoke Center of the World.”
They are eaten — and classified — as a vegetable and can be prepared in so many different ways: thinly sliced and eaten raw in a salad, grilled, steamed, boiled, stuffed, or baked. They make a great pizza topping. And then there’s the famous (and oh-so-unhealthy) spinach-artichoke dip (made with every dairy product known to man), and the exquisite and world-renowned Roman fried artichokes.
Preparing a fresh artichoke can be intimidating for the home cook. The best place to start is by steaming it and serving the artichoke simply, with melted butter and lemon wedges. Many people think that the tender, meaty inside of the artichoke, known as the heart, is the only part of the artichoke worth eating. I would heartily disagree. The leaves, or petals, when steamed or boiled until tender, are thoroughly satisfying dipped in melted butter, doused with fresh lemon juice, or dipped into a garlic aioli.
And when you’re in a pinch, you can always rely on canned, jarred, and/or marinated artichoke hearts — packed in oil and herbs as well as water — found on any grocery store shelf.
Buying guide
- Look for artichokes that don’t look dried out. The leaves should be closed and tightly wrapped around the center. If the artichoke leaves are open and separating, it usually indicates that the artichoke is old.
- If you see artichoke with browned leaves that say “frost kissed,” it means the choke was exposed to colder temperatures. This does not affect the taste at all. And some people believe that frost-kissed artichokes have an even fuller flavor.
Types of artichokes
Most of us are lucky to find globe artichokes in our grocery stores. But if you live on the West Coast or have access to good farmers’ markets, you may find a wide variety of artichokes. Some of the best varieties to look for:
- Globe artichokes are the type of artichoke available in most grocery stores across the country. They can be quite large, up to 5 inches or so, and are heavy. This artichoke is a member of the thistle family and is in season from June through the winter months. The leaves of a globe artichoke are generally green or purple.
- Baby Anzio artichokes are small, generally around 1 inch in diameter, and tend to be red. They are ideal for steaming and then stuffing or roasting.
- Big heart artichokes have a large base and are ideal for stuffed artichoke dishes.
- Castel artichokes have a rounder shape and contain more nutrients than other varieties. They can be steamed or boiled.
- Chianti artichokes, an Italian variety, have distinctive maroon-colored leaves.
- Fiesole artichokes have a fruity flavor, beautiful deep red color and tender stems.
- Jerusalem artichokes are not actually artichokes. They are tuber-like vegetables, also called sunchokes, that have an artichoke-like flavor. They tend to be very fibrous and are excellent for soup and salads.
- King artichokes are gigantic and can weigh more than a pound.
- Siena artichokes have an oblong shape and reddish color. This is a variety whose hearts are tender enough to eat raw.
- Violetta artichokes, an Italian heirloom, are small, with green leaves tinged with purple.
Are artichokes good for you?
Artichokes are low in fat and high in fiber, vitamins and antioxidants. One medium artichoke contains 7 grams of fiber and only 60 calories. They are high in folate, vitamins C and K, and have a good amount of magnesium and iron. They are believed to lower blood sugar levels and improve digestion.
Asparagus
Thick or thin?
Asparagus comes in many sizes, from pencil-thin to fat, chubby stalks. No one size is right. It’s truly a matter of personal preference. I love using thin first-of-the-season asparagus for delicate dishes like salads, stir fries and sautes. Medium-sized stalks can be used in any dish and thicker, fatter ones are ideal for roasting or grilling.
Snapping the ends
The root ends of asparagus can be tough, dry, and fibrous. They need to be trimmed. The simplest and most efficient way to do this is to hold the asparagus spear with both hands near the root end (opposite the tip) and gently snap off the end. The spear should snap off near the bottom (about ½ to 1 inch) where the asparagus has started to dry out.
How to shop and store asparagus
Ideally, buy your asparagus from a farmer’s market or a grocer that has a fresh supply. Limp, droopy stalks indicate the asparagus is old. Look for bright, crisp stalks where the root ends are not dried out and shriveled. The best way to store asparagus is loosely wrapped in a damp paper towel in the refrigerator.
Asparagus tartine with creme fraiche, lemon and dill
A tartine is an open-faced sandwich, traditionally French and made with a crusty baguette or bread. This one couldn’t be more straightforward, but is also full of nuance and fresh spring flavors. Asparagus are steamed and placed on top of crusty bread cooked in olive oil and topped with creme fraiche (or sour cream), chopped dill, and lemon zest. This makes a great first course, lunch, or side dish to any spring meal. Serves 2.
INGREDIENTS
The asparagus and creme fraiche topping:
- 4 ounces asparagus, ends trimmed
- ¼ cup creme fraiche or sour cream
- 2 teaspoons fresh dill or fennel fronds, finely chopped, plus 1 teaspoon more for garnish
- 1 ½ teaspoons grated lemon zest, plus ¼ teaspoon more for garnish
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
The bread:
- 2 slices crusty bread or 1 three-inch slice baguette, cut in half vertically
- About 2 tablespoons olive oil
INSTRUCTIONS
- Cook the asparagus: Fill a medium-sized skillet with cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the asparagus, reduce the heat to a low simmer, and cook for around 4 to 8 minutes, depending on the thickness and freshness of your stalks. The spears should be just tender. Remove, drain, and then place under cold running water, and drain again. Set aside.
- In a small bowl, mix the creme fraiche, 2 teaspoons of dill, 1 ½ teaspoons lemon zest, salt and pepper to taste.
- Prepare the toast: In a medium skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over moderate heat. Add the bread and cook for about 2 to 3 minutes or until golden brown. Flip the bread, adding more oil if needed and cook another 2 minutes or so until golden brown on the other side.
- To serve: Place the bread on a plate. Spread half the creme fraiche topping on the bread and top with half the asparagus. Sprinkle with a touch of the remaining lemon zest and dill. Repeat with the other bread.
Artichoke salad with peas in a mustard-caper vinaigrette
This salad can be prepared hours ahead of time and assembled just before serving. It’s spring on a plate, a combination of tender, meaty artichoke hearts with fresh new peas. Serves 2 to 4.
INGREDIENTS
- 2 medium to large artichokes
- 1 lemon, cut in half
- ½ cup fresh or frozen peas
The mustard-caper vinaigrette:
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- 1 tablespoon fresh chives or scallions, finely chopped
- 1 ½ teaspoons capers, drained
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 ½ tablespoons lemon juice or white wine vinegar
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- Lemon wedges
INSTRUCTIONS
- Fill a medium to large pot halfway with water to boil over high heat.
- Prepare the artichokes: trim the stem end by ½ inch. Using a large, sharp knife, cut about ½ inch off the leaf tips. Rub the lemon over the artichoke to prevent oxidation and browning and then place the lemon into the pot of water. This will help the artichoke from browning while it cooks.
- Add the artichokes, reduce the heat to medium, cover and cook for around 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the size and freshness. The artichoke is ready when one of the outer leaves pulls off easily. Remove with a slotted spoon and let cool slightly. Place the peas in a large slotted spoon or steamer basket and add to the boiling water; cook for 2 minutes for fresh peas and 3 minutes for frozen. Remove, drain and cool.
- While still warm, remove any of the dark outer leaves from the artichokes. You may remove at least two layers until you reach the tender, lighter green inner leaves. Cut the artichokes in half lengthwise and, using a kitchen spoon, remove the fuzzy centers, making sure not to remove the solid tender hearts.
- Make the vinaigrette: in a small bowl, mix the mustard, chives, capers, salt and pepper. Whisk in the lemon juice and olive oil and taste for seasoning.
- To serve: place the prepared artichoke halves on a serving plate and spoon the peas on top and around. Spoon the vinaigrette on top and surround with the lemon wedges. Serve at room temperature or cold. The dish can be made several hours ahead of time (cover and refrigerate until serving) and add vinaigrette just before serving.
Artichokes with anchovy-panko-garlic stuffing
A stuffed artichoke is a thing of beauty, a labor of love since there are several steps. You can make this dish ahead of time and reheat it just before serving.
This dish is for anchovy lovers. Serves 1 to 2.
INGREDIENTS
- 4 small or 1 large artichoke, trim ½ inch off the stem end and cut off 1 ½ inches off the top of the leaves
- 1 small lemon, cut in half
- 1 ½ cups water
- ½ cup dry white wine
- Pinch salt
The stuffing
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 tablespoon anchovy oil from a 2-ounce tin
- 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 4 anchovy filets from the 2-ounce tin above
- 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped, or 1 ½ teaspoons dried and crumbled
- 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, finely chopped or 1 teaspoon dried and crumbled
- Freshly ground pepper
- Pinch dried red chili flakes
- About ¾ cup panko or plain breadcrumbs
- ⅓ cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese
- 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
- ¼ cup Italian parsley, finely chopped
- 1 lemon, cut into wedges for serving
INSTURCTIONS
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare the artichokes as described above and rub the cut surface with the lemon. Add the remaining lemon to the boiling water. (This will help the artichoke from oxidizing and turning brown.) Parboil the artichoke(s) for 5 minutes if using small ones and 15 minutes if using a large one. Drain and cool.
- Meanwhile, make the stuffing: In a medium skillet, heat the olive and anchovy oil over low heat. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, and then add the anchovy filets and cook for another 3 minutes or until the anchovy filets “melt” in the oil. Add the rosemary, thyme, pepper, and a pinch of the chili flakes and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
- Add the panko to a bowl. Add the grated cheese, lemon zest, and parsley. Mix in the warm oil and anchovy mixture and let cool.
- Using your hands, gently separate the artichoke leaves so you can see to the bottom, where you’ll find a fuzzy center. Using a kitchen spoon, gently scoop out the fuzzy center. Be careful not to remove the solid heart at the bottom.
- Use an ovenproof skillet, medium-sized Pyrex dish, or small roasting pan that can hold the artichoke(s) snugly.
- Hold the artichokes over the bowl with the stuffing and place some of the stuffing in between all the leaves and into the hollowed-out cavity. Place in the baking dish. (The dish can be made several hours ahead of time; cover and refrigerate.)
- Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
- Add about 1 ½ cups of water around the artichoke(s) and ½ cup of wine and a pinch of salt around the artichokes. Cover with foil and bake about 1 hour until the artichoke is hot and one of the outer leaves is tender. Serve hot or at room temperature.
More artichoke and asparagus recipes:
- Get to the heart of cooking artichokes with these recipes and tips
- 4 delicious ways to eat asparagus this spring
- Celebrate spring with these bright, fresh salad recipes
- Chef Kathy Gunst thinks green for spring
This article was originally published on WBUR.org.
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